Exploring Daryaganj: Delhi’s Historical Heartbeat

By Rajkumari Sharma Tankha

Daryaganj history stretches from Mughal river trade to British cantonments and a freedom fighter’s mansion, and much of it is still visible on the street.

Delhi has always been a city of creation, destruction, and rebirth. Each time an old city was destroyed, parts of it survived and merged with the new. This has created a unique juxtaposition of old and new seen today in lifestyle, buildings, culture, traditions and cuisine.

One such area, Daryaganj (also written Darya Ganj), located in the walled city of Shahjahanabad, is a treasure trove of history and heritage. Walking through its wide streets, even with the modern two-lane parking of vehicles, one can experience the grandeur of a bygone era.

Daryaganj is a neighbourhood in Old Delhi, inside the walled city of Shahjahanabad, named after the Yamuna river that once flowed beside it. It began as a river-side trading post, became a British cantonment after 1803, and later housed leaders such as Dr Mukhtar Ahmed Ansari. Today it is known for its publishers and its Sunday book market.

Daryaganj history: key facts at a glance

• Location: inside the walled city of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi), starting at Delhi Gate
• Name: from “darya” (river) and “ganj” (market), after the Yamuna that once ran beside the city wall
• Colonial era: a British cantonment was set up after 1803, and much of the area emptied after the 1857 revolt
• Landmarks: Martello Tower, Dr Ansari’s former mansion, Dr Shroff’s Charity Eye Hospital, Zeenat-ul-Masjid and the Sunehri Masjids
• Today: a publishing hub on Ansari Road, with the Sunday book bazaar at Mahila Haat
• Nearest metro: Delhi Gate on the Violet Line

Why is it called Daryaganj?

The area became known as Daryaganj, or “river market,” because waterways were crucial for transporting heavy goods. Unloading at the Yamuna ghats allowed traders to sell items directly, reducing transportation costs.The Yamuna once flowed just outside the walled city, until the British diverted it further east after the 1857 siege of Delhi.

Martello Tower: Guardian of the City

Standing outside the erstwhile city wall is Martello Tower, a British-built defensive fortification of the 19th century. Historically, it marked the edge of the city where the Yamuna River began.

Why is it called Daryaganj?

The area became known as Daryaganj, or “river market,” because waterways were crucial for transporting heavy goods. Unloading at the Yamuna ghats allowed traders to sell items directly, reducing transportation costs.The Yamuna once flowed just outside the walled city, until the British diverted it further east after the 1857 siege of Delhi.

Daryaganj: From Shahjahanabad to New Delhi

Daryaganj lies within Shahjahanabad, the walled city Shah Jahan built around the Red Fort in the 17th century. It served as a wholesale market and became an integral part of the city.

A portion of the wall of the walled city

After 1803, the British set up the Daryaganj Cantonment here, one of their earliest establishments in Old Delhi.During British rule, Darya Ganj hosted a cantonment with open spaces. The 1857 revolt emptied much of the area after European residents were killed.Later, as New Delhi was built, Daryaganj became a buffer between the old walled city and the new capital. Many colonial-style bungalows were built, several still standing today, though some appear dilapidated due to abandonment.

Historical Mansions and Freedom Fighters

Dr Ansari’s house

Darya Ganj has been home to several freedom fighters, doctors, and lawyers. Among them, Dr. Mukhtar Ahmed Ansari, a surgeon and political leader, built a mansion here, known as Darus Salam, or the Abode of Peace. Mahatma Gandhi was a frequent guest when he visited Delhi, and the house was a regular base for Congress activity. Dr. Ansari played an important role in negotiating the 1916 Lucknow Pact between the Congress and the Muslim League. Today, the mansion is known as Shrimati Krishna Devi Rajkrishna Jain Smriti Bhawan. It is a piece of history known, mainly to historians.

Dr Shroff’s Charity Eye Hospital: Heritage in Healthcare

Dr Shroff’s Charity Eye Hospital

Another historical landmark is Dr Shroff’s Charity Eye Hospital (SCEH). Dr. SP Shroff started it as a small clinic in Lahori Bazaar in 1914, and it grew into the Daryaganj hospital that serves patients today.This hospital was supported by prominent locals, including Dr. Ansari and Hakim Ajmal Khan.

The hospital retains its colonial architecture and is operated by the third generation of the Shroff family. It is regarded as a heritage building and continues to serve thousands of patients. This exemplifies the area’s blend of history and modern utility.

Education and Community in Daryaganj

During its redevelopment, Darya Ganj became a hub for educational institutions. Schools like the Anglo Sanskrit Victoria Jubilee School, Jain School, and the early Jain orphanage continue to operate till today. Thus, it preserves the area’s cultural and educational heritage.

Jain School

Daryaganj today: the Sunday book bazaar and how to reach

Daryaganj is still a publishing hub, with many publishers on Ansari Road, named after Dr Ansari. On Sundays, the famous Daryaganj book bazaar, once held on the pavements, now runs at Mahila Haat, close to its original spot. Delhi Gate, on the Violet Line, is the easiest metro station to reach it.

Preserving Public Spaces and Heritage

Darya Ganj stands as a testament to Delhi’s evolving cityscape. Yet, many of its buildings, public spaces, and historical mansions remain vulnerable. Protecting these sites ensures that future generations can experience Delhi’s rich history first hand.That is why Daryaganj history deserves more than a passing glance: much of it still stands, and much of it is easy to miss.

Daryaganj: frequently asked questions

• Q: Why is it called Daryaganj?
  A: Daryaganj combines “darya” (river) and “ganj” (market). The name comes from the Yamuna, which once flowed just outside the walled city of Shahjahanabad.
• Q: What is Daryaganj famous for?
  A: It is known for its Mughal and colonial heritage, the publishing houses on Ansari Road, and the Sunday book bazaar, now held at Mahila Haat near Delhi Gate.
• Q: What is the Martello Tower in Daryaganj?
  A: It is a British-built defensive tower of the 19th century that stands outside the old wall of Shahjahanabad.
• Q: Which metro station is nearest to Daryaganj?
  A: Delhi Gate on the Violet Line. Daryaganj begins at Delhi Gate.

Read next: how the Violet Line’s last station got its name, and more heritage stories on Life & More.