Kangra Hill Train Journey: An Offbeat Toy Train Ride Through Himachal’s Scenic Valley

Saurabh Tankha

A trip aboard the Kangra Valley Railway is one of India’s most charming offbeat rail experiences. Covering about 164 km between Pathankot and Jogindernagar, the train passes through lush valleys, small hill towns and picturesque landscapes, stopping at nearly 28 stations along the way.

For travellers looking for a slow and immersive journey through the Himalayas, the Kangra Hill Train offers a unique blend of nostalgia, nature and culture.

waiting for Kangra hill train

A Childhood Memory Rekindled

My first ride on the iconic Kalka–Shimla Railway when I was 15 remains one of the most memorable travel experiences of my life. The tiny “Lilliputian” train winding around hills, passing red-roofed houses, crossing lush valleys and disappearing into tunnels before emerging into bright sunlight left an unforgettable impression on me.

Over the years, I have often narrated those stories to my children at bedtime. So when I got the chance to recreate a similar experience for them, I grabbed it.

During a business trip to Pathankot, I decided to introduce my children to another quaint mountain railway — the Kangra toy train.

Starting the Journey on the Kangra Valley Railway

The Kangra Valley Railway falls under the Firozpur Division of Northern Railway and connects Pathankot in Punjab with Jogindernagar in Himachal Pradesh. Planned in May 1926 and commissioned in 1929, the line reaches its highest point at Ahju station, located about 4,230 feet above sea level.

The train that begins its journey from Jogindernagar at 7:20 am reaches Pathankot only by around 5:10 pm. The slow pace means it takes nearly ten hours to cover the entire route — but that is precisely what makes the journey special.

Unlike many mountain railways, the Kangra Valley track was designed to minimise sharp bends and dizzying curves, making the ride relatively smooth even for first-time passengers.

A Slow Train Through Himalayan Landscapes

When we arrived at the station, the platform was already bustling with locals and tourists. Since reservations are not available on this train, most seats in the four coaches were quickly taken.

Soon the train rolled out of the station, offering spectacular views of the Himalayan foothills. The sunlight danced across the slopes, conifer forests thickened along the stretch between Mangwal and Kangra, fruit-laden orchards perfumed the air, and deep gorges carved through the landscape.

Crossing the sun-baked Ban Ganga gorge and the dramatic Kangra valley offered glimpses of the region’s geological and cultural history.

After its first halt at Majheran, the train slowly gathered pace.

Conversations Along the Way

On board, we met KS Singh, a resident of Sulah, who prefers the train to any other mode of transport.

“Ever since I was six, I have been travelling by this train. It has been the only constant in my life,” he said with a smile. “Interestingly, it still runs at the same speed and takes the same amount of time even today.”

Many local passengers disembark at Palampur, an important town on the route.

From Palampur onwards, the track becomes single line, and trains often halt for 15 to 45 minutes to allow crossings. This pause provides travellers with enough time to explore nearby attractions.

Visiting the Chamunda Devi Temple

Just 10 km from Palampur station, on the banks of the Baner River, lies the revered Chamunda Devi Temple.

Dating back to the 16th century, the temple is dedicated to Chamunda Devi, a fierce manifestation of Goddess Durga. According to legend, when the demons Chanda and Munda tried to harass Goddess Ambika, she created Goddess Kali from her knitted brows. Kali defeated the demons, after which Ambika declared that she would be worshipped here as Chamunda Devi.

Today, the temple complex has developed into a popular pilgrimage and tourist destination.

Kangra’s Rich Cultural Heritage

The cultural heritage of the Kangra region can be seen in its temples, forts and art traditions. In the 18th century, Sansar Chand Katoch II recaptured Kangra from the Mughals and expanded his kingdom to the Kullu Valley. Under his patronage, the region witnessed a flourishing of art and culture, including the development of the famous Kangra miniature paintings.

One of the most significant historical landmarks here is the Kangra Fort, considered among the oldest forts in India.

Temples and Legends of Kangra

From Kangra railway station, visitors can easily reach the Brajeshwari Devi Temple, located about 2 km away. Walking to the temple is often easier than hiring a rickshaw, as the road is usually crowded with devotees.

The temple is believed to have once held immense wealth, including diamonds and pearls. Originally built by a Katoch ruler in the 11th century, it has also attracted visitors across faiths.

Historical accounts mention that Akbar visited the shrine along with his minister Raja Todar Mal, while Maharaja Ranjit Singh later gilded its dome.

The temple was severely damaged during the 1905 Kangra earthquake and was rebuilt in 1920.

Other prominent shrines in the region include Jawalamukhi Temple and Chintpurni Devi Temple.

Exploring the Ancient Kangra Fort

A visit to Kangra is incomplete without exploring Kangra Fort, which stands majestically overlooking the valley. The fort finds mention in records related to Alexander the Great dating back to the 4th century BC.

The entrance leads through narrow gateways and courtyards built during different periods, including the Sikh and Mughal eras. The path passes through gates such as Ahani and Amin Darwaza before reaching the summit.

At the top, the view is spectacular — the Ban Ganga River winding through the valley, the majestic Dhauladhar Range forming a dramatic backdrop, and winding mountain roads disappearing into the hills.

A Journey Worth Remembering

On our return journey, my children shouted with excitement as the train passed through the Daulatpur Tunnel, just as I had done decades ago during my teenage ride on the Kalka-Shimla toy train.

That moment reminded me how journeys like these create memories that last a lifetime.

The ride aboard the Kangra Hill Train may be slow, but every minute spent on it is worth the experience.