Garli’s old world charm engulfs you, literally

Rajkumari Sharma Tankha

It was while sipping a hot cup of tea at a roadside stall near Matour that I first heard about a quaint village called Garli. This was a couple of years ago when I, along with my family, was travelling from Pathankot to Palampur—the famous hill station and tea capital of northwest India—for our summer holidays.

A group of villagers waiting for a state transport bus were discussing how Garli had transformed after being declared a heritage village along with Pragpur by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Department. Curious, I asked them about the distance and stay options.

“About 55–60 km,” one of them replied, adding that there was a state guest house and a place called “Chato Garli” (as he pronounced it). The name stayed with me. Someday, I must visit, I thought.

A Chance Discovery That Became a Journey

The word “heritage” has always had a special pull for me and my family. We actively seek destinations steeped in history and culture. And here was one such place—discovered purely by chance.

An hour after reaching Palampur and searching for Garli online, we decided to return the following year. Our next vacation was already planned for Kerala, but Garli had quietly secured a place on our travel list.

And then, finally—we were there.

Garli: Where Time Stands Still

Often referred to as the sister village of Pragpur, Garli is dotted with elegant mansions and havelis, standing alongside slate-roofed, mud-plastered homes. In 2002, the Himachal Pradesh government declared the Garli-Pragpur belt a heritage zone to preserve its architectural and cultural legacy.

The village is full of old buildings—mostly residential—and sadly, many now lie abandoned. Yet, even in decay, these structures carry an undeniable charm that draws you in and leaves you mesmerised.

Stay at Chateau Garli: A Living Heritage Experience

Staying in Garli is an experience in itself, thanks to Chateau Garli—a nearly 100-year-old mansion lovingly restored by its owner, Yatish Sud.

Sud has ensured that every element of the original home remains intact. From old utensils and kitchenware to antique sanitary fittings, everything has been preserved and beautifully integrated into the property.

When I first saw pictures of the chateau online, I assumed it would offer a French-style experience. But I must admit—the authentic old-world village experience it provides is far richer and more meaningful.

We arrived on a Monday, and after settling in, explored the village. “People here were very house-proud,” Sud told us—and it shows. Each house seems more beautiful than the other, showcasing influences of Portuguese, Islamic, and Rajasthani architecture, often blended together. The common thread? Gabled roofs with slate shingles.

Sadly, many of these homes are now neglected, their owners having moved away. Only a few remain occupied, while others slowly fade into oblivion.

A Stay Rooted in Nostalgia

Sud’s passion for preserving heritage extends beyond architecture. As a welcome gesture, we were served malai barfi and kulfi made from pure milk and sugar—served traditionally in banyan leaves, sourced from a local vendor he personally called in.

Each of the 19 rooms carries an antique charm—be it the furniture, almirahs, or décor. Interestingly, since ceiling fans did not exist when the house was built in 1921, none have been added even today. Instead, rooms are equipped with pedestal fans and air conditioners for comfort.

And yes—there’s even a spa. In a village!

The property is a treasure trove of memories: an old ancestral crib, coins turned into art installations, and vintage keys and locks. Sud shares an amusing anecdote about the keys—discovered in his grandmother’s locker years after her passing, when the family expected jewellery but found only iron keys.

Also on display are a gramophone, typewriter, telephone, piano, and food warmer—all preserved in their original glory.

Architecture That Tells Stories

The main building, with its gabled roofs, long windows, and pillared verandas, flows seamlessly into the annexe—which once served as a cattle shed. Every corner of Chateau Garli reflects history, thoughtfully preserved.

What to Do Around Garli

While Garli itself is quiet and unassuming, it serves as a perfect base to explore nearby attractions:

• Masrur Rock Temples
• Kangra Fort
• Norbulingka Institute
• Kalinath Kaleshwar Mahadev Temple

You can also spend a peaceful evening by the Beas River, collecting smooth, colourful pebbles—if you’re a collector like me.

A small word of caution: avoid feeding stray dogs along the riverbanks, and please do not litter. Let’s preserve the pristine beauty of these places.

For wildlife enthusiasts, a night safari is also an option—though sightings of big animals are not guaranteed.

Why Garli Deserves a Place on Your Travel List

Garli may not be a bustling tourist hotspot, but that is precisely its charm. It offers a rare glimpse into a bygone era—where architecture, culture, and lifestyle come together to tell stories of the past.

If you are someone who values heritage, slow travel, and authentic experiences, Garli is a destination you should not miss.