Chabili Bhatiyaran Ki Sarai: Delhi’s Forgotten Mughal-Era Monument

Rajkumari Sharma Tankha

Once a bustling resting place for travellers heading to Delhi, Chabili Bhatiyaran Ki Sarai is today a forgotten and neglected monument hidden amid crowded neighbourhoods.

Centuries ago, hundreds of travellers passing along the historic Grand Trunk (GT) Road would stop at this massive multi-storeyed haveli-like structure. Here they found shelter in its many rooms and enjoyed food served by a woman known as Chabili Bhatiyaran. Over time, the sarai became famous by her name and came to be known as Chabili Bhatiyaran Ki Sarai.

Little is known about who Chabili Bhatiyaran actually was or how she came to run this place. According to available records of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), the structure belongs to the late Mughal period. The monument is also known by other names such as Sarai Pipalthala and Badli Sarai.

Location and Historical Significance

The sarai is located on GT Road near Adarsh Nagar in North Delhi. Historically, it served as a resting stop for travellers and traders moving along one of India’s most important trade routes.

The complex originally consisted of a large enclosure surrounded by arched cells, which functioned as rooms for travellers. The sarai was entered through two gateways located on the north-west and south-east sides.

The monument also has a connection with the First War of Independence in 1857, when it was occupied by Indian troops during the uprising against British rule.

What Remains of the Sarai Today

Today, very little of the original structure survives.

Only the two main gateways and traces of the original rooms remain. The arched cells that once lined the enclosure were dismantled in the early 20th century, leaving behind only fragments of the historic complex.

The gateways themselves still display elements of Mughal architecture. They feature battlements on the outer face, a domed chamber, and stairs leading to the terrace from the rear side. Among the two, the northern gateway is relatively better preserved.

Encroachment and Neglect

Unfortunately, the sarai has suffered extensive neglect over the years.

The original enclosure has been completely altered, with residential buildings constructed around the monument. In some places, the modern structures stand just a few centimetres away from the historic gateways.

Although the ASI has installed an iron grill around the site, it is broken in several places, making the area easily accessible.

A Monument Misused

Today, the monument faces multiple problems.

For drug addicts, the structure has become a safe hideout. The surrounding open space is used freely by local residents. In the mornings, parts of the area are used as an open toilet, while during the day children can be seen playing cricket near the historic gateway.

Garbage piles near the entrance and at the rear of the structure tell a sad story of neglect—both by authorities and by people living nearby.

Along the boundary grill on the GT Road side, hawkers, fruit sellers, and vegetable vendors have set up temporary stalls. Shockingly, one family has even begun living within the monument premises.

Abandoned Restoration Efforts

The entire area around the sarai is barren, with no greenery or landscaping.

According to sources, excavation work was carried out earlier this year, during which some walls were unearthed. Bell-shaped marble structures were also discovered and are still lying at the site.

However, due to shortage of funds, the work was halted midway.

Sources say that new tenders may be floated in March, after which restoration work might resume.

Lack of Basic Protection

Despite being an ASI-protected monument, the site lacks even the most basic facilities.

There is no information board identifying the monument, no security guard, and the entrance gate is broken and left unlocked.

For a structure that once served as an important travellers’ sarai during the Mughal period, this neglect raises serious questions about the preservation of Delhi’s lesser-known heritage sites.