Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta
Palm oil, a versatile ingredient in the skincare industry, has been under increased scrutiny due to environmental and ethical concerns. Yet, it remains a vital component in many skincare products due to its unique properties. In this article, we explain why palm oil derivatives are so prevalent in skincare, the benefits they offer, and how to navigate labels to ensure sustainability.
Role of Palm Oil Derivatives in Skincare
This oil and its derivatives are widely used in skincare products for several reasons. Their chemical structure and versatility make them beneficial in a variety of applications. Here’s a closer look at why these derivatives are important:
Palm Oil: This is rich in fatty acids, primarily palmitic acid and oleic acid, which provide excellent emollient properties. These fatty acids help to moisturize and soften the skin, making palm oil a key ingredient in creams and lotions.
Palm Kernel Oil: Contains lauric acid, which has antibacterial and antifungal properties. This makes it useful in skincare products designed to cleanse and protect the skin from harmful microbes.
Palm Stearine and Palm Olein: These fractions are derived when the oil goes through a process called fractionation. Palm stearine has a higher melting point, making it a good thickening agent in creams and body butters, providing stability to the product. Palm olein is more liquid, offering a smooth texture and making it ideal for lighter formulations like lotions and oils.
Elaeis Guineensis: As the botanical name for the oil palm tree, this encompasses all palm oil-derived products. Its primary benefits include moisturising, conditioning, and providing a rich source of antioxidants like Vitamin E, which help protect the skin from free radical damage.
Glyceryl Stearate: This derivative acts as an emulsifier, helping to combine oil and water-based ingredients in skincare products. It contributes to a smooth and stable texture, preventing products from separating.
Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol: These are fatty alcohols, and act as emollients, providing a creamy texture and enhancing the skin’s softness. They also help thicken and stabilise products.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: Often used as a surfactant and foaming agent, it helps create the rich lather in soaps and cleansers. It is effective in removing dirt and oil from the skin’s surface.
Addressing Environmental Concerns
While the derivatives offer many benefits, their environmental impact cannot be ignored. Unsustainable production of this oil has led to deforestation, habitat loss, and greenhouse gas emissions. However, the demand for these derivatives in skincare remains high due to their functionality.
Striking a Balance
Given the widespread use of derivatives in skincare, the key is to support sustainable sourcing. The Malaysian Sustainable Palm Oil [MSPO] sets standards for responsible palm oil production, promoting practices that protect the environment and support local communities. By choosing products with MSPO certification, consumers can enjoy the benefits of palm oil while encouraging sustainable practices.
Navigating Skincare Labels
Understanding the importance of derivatives of this oil in skincare, you can still make informed choices to ensure sustainability. Here are some tips:
Look for MSPO Certification: This certification indicates that the product contains sustainably sourced palm oil.
Research the Brand’s Commitment to Sustainability: Companies that prioritise transparency often disclose their sustainability practices on their website or product packaging.
Choose Brands with Clear Labeling: Brands that use clear and transparent labeling make it easier to understand the origin of their ingredients.
Palm oil derivatives are essential in skincare, providing moisturisation, stability, and cleansing properties. However, their environmental impact necessitates a balanced approach. By supporting brands that prioritise sustainability and choosing products with MSPO certification, you can enjoy all the benefits while contributing to a more sustainable industry.
As consumers, we have the power to drive change by making informed choices. By understanding why these derivatives are used in skincare and how to navigate labels, we can support a more sustainable future.
